Article by Emmanuelle Dumas
Powder cosmetics: THE big trend of 2021.
Everyone's talking about it in the beauty press, the blogosphere, and above all product launches, which have never been so numerous as in the past two years. But what are we talking about?
The Do-It-Yourself trend? Yes, in part, with the success of the many brands offering blends of raw materials, including powders to dilute in water, plant oils, or floral waters. But here we'll mainly discuss the trend of a more “complex” cosmetic, formulated by an expert laboratory in an anhydrous (water-free) form, made from carefully selected ingredients a cosmetic that, once rehydrated, turns into a shower gel, a shampoo, a facial cleanser, a mask, or a cream for the skin.
Contrary to what you might think, anhydrous cosmetics are not new. They've been used in France for years in one specific sector: beauty institutes — a sector where the quality, efficacy, and performance of formulas are essential, and one for which Technature is a leading developer. Powder cosmetics have, in fact, been in the group's DNA since its founding.
For estheticians, the advantages are clear: practicality, easy storage, made-to-measure formulas, personalization, a “fresh” formula, the in-cabin experience... and, of course, results on the skin. Today these powder cosmetics are a hit with consumers, for somewhat different reasons:
- They are natural and more “clean,” because their anhydrous form makes it possible to formulate without preservatives, additives, or stabilizers.
- They are “eco-responsible,” because they don't waste water or transport it.
- Their formats are light, practical, and travel-friendly.
- They bring a galenic innovation: anhydrous and minimalist.
- As well as a new gesture.
- With an undeniable sensory appeal.
- Across many galenic varieties: foam, cream, gel...
So what about the efficacy of powder cosmetics?
Powder cosmetics undeniably deliver benefits, and here's why:
1/ Effective active ingredients
These are, first of all, natural powders traditionally used for their recognized benefits: clays, ghassoul, charcoal, rice or poppy powder. They're go-tos for their effects on the skin: purifying, mattifying, softening, brightening, soothing...
Laboratories have managed to add more complex, oily, and aqueous ingredients to make powder formulas as “elaborate” as “classic” ones. It's no longer rare to find in them actives with more scientific approaches patented and substantiated (tested in vitro): hyaluronic acid, plant stem cells, and so on.
Their anhydrous form makes it possible to include very specific ingredients whose benefit is triggered on contact with water or liquid: this is the case for enzymes, vitamin C, AHAs, and probiotics. In a dry medium, they are stabilized to deliver their full benefit at the moment of use.
2/ Concentrated formulas
Because they are anhydrous, they allow a high concentration of ingredients and are often formulated with a shorter INCI list.
By removing the water, you keep only the essential active principles, which are better dosed.
3/ An intense world of sensoriality, for benefits you can feel
Powder cosmetics invite an experience of great sensoriality and create a powerful felt sense of the product's very efficacy:
- Thanks to the transformation at the moment of preparation: a powder that becomes foam for a shampoo, milk for a shower gel, or gel for an exfoliant. Have you ever tried one of Technature's Shaker Mask® products a highly natural active powder you shake with water that turns into a smoussy or creamy mask? Incredible! The very latest launches are right on trend: a prebiotic + aloe vera powder, enriched and then split into three masks for three types of need — to mattify the look of the skin, to soften it, and to bring radiance.
- Thanks to the sensations these formulas create on application: once rehydrated, the texture can deliver a warming, cooling, fizzing, or “bubble” effect, or solidify into a peel-off or “imprint” mask (a thick layer to peel off the skin, as with alginate masks). The benefit is 100% felt and visible.
We are surely only at the very beginning of the opportunities powder cosmetics can offer. Consumer expectations — at once eco-responsible, wellness-oriented, pleasure-driven, and experiential are settling in and will challenge brands for years to come.
In terms of efficacy, powders will be even more relevant as they move into more expert categories such as facial care. To do so, they'll need to host more active ingredients. There's already much to draw on from products developed for institutes and, likewise, institutes have very interesting openings to develop consumer powder products, extending the experience to their clients' homes.
